13517616170 HPFP for BMW N54 N55 3.0L Turbo

The application we stand behind is the N54 and the early N55: a 3.0 litre turbocharged straight six petrol engine on a direct fuel injection system, and the vehicles published against those engines include the 135i and 135is, the 1M Coupe, the 335i, 335is and 335xi, the 535i, 535xi and 535i GT, the 640i, the 740i and 740Li, the X1, X3, X5 and X6, and the Z4. Two things carry that application and they are the ones the published data actually supports: the 3.0 litre turbo petrol six-cylinder engine family, and the physical layout of the pump itself. That is the petrol fuel pump this engine was built with, and an order that starts from the pump coming off is the one that arrives correct.

About the engine code in the listing. The number reached us from a listing titled for an N4 N55 engine, and it is worth saying why this page reads N54 and N55 instead. N4 has never been a BMW petrol engine code, and the two codes that the parts data publishes against this number are N54 and N55. So the listing title is a dropped character, not a third engine. We publish the two codes the data supports and we do not widen the claim to anything else, because an engine family this page cannot evidence is an engine family a buyer should not be told fits.

Three identifiers worth having in hand. If the vehicle is still with the customer, the VIN on the registration document settles the engine variant faster than any chart, and the chassis plate number settles which build the vehicle left the factory as. Where the pump is already off the engine, a photograph of the engine code plate and a photograph of the number stamped into the housing settle it instead. Any one of those three alongside the cast block is enough for us to confirm in writing; all of them together is what stops a superseded-group order reaching your workshop.

Why the casting matters more than the model list. Two vehicles carrying the same model badge can sit on either side of a production change, and this number sits inside a superseded group of several numbers with a later revision existing for the same application. The cast character block on the housing is what settles it, because it is the one marking on this assembly that survives a strip, a clean and a decade on the engine. Read it, photograph it, and match it. A high pressure fuel pump bought that way arrives right the first time, which is the whole point of the five steps above.

What this page is not claiming. We are not saying that a neighbouring number in the superseded group fits your engine, that a later revision carries the same internal changes as this one, that a component number for anything inside the housing is settled, or that a pump from another engine family substitutes. 13517616170 describes one build, and the cast block plus the drive end are what identify it. Anything beyond those is better answered from your own parts data, and we would rather answer it with you than assert it here.

A turbocharged petrol engine with direct fuel injection runs two pumps, and the division between them is where most ordering mistakes on this engine start. In the fuel tank sits the low pressure fuel pump, an electric unit with a float sender that moves fuel forward to the engine under modest pressure. This number is the other one: the engine mounted high pressure fuel pump that multiplies that pressure into the hundreds of atmospheres the direct injectors need. Same fuel, same engine, same journey, two different parts with two different numbers. A buyer who has been quoted a small pump with a motor and a float sender as 13517616170 has been sold the tank unit, and it will not do this job.

The second difference is how this pump is driven, and it is the detail that separates a petrol high pressure pump from the diesel injection pump that shares much of the vocabulary. On a diesel injection engine the fuel pump is driven off the engine camshaft and the fuel is forced up to rail pressure mechanically. On this petrol engine the high pressure fuel pump is driven off the back of the vacuum pump: a lobe on that unit acts on a roller tappet, and the tappet is the part that rides the lobe. Same word, different mechanism, and the mechanism is visible on the part. That is why a listing that looks reasonable in a search result can still be the wrong assembly, and why the three checks below matter more than the number.

Those three checks are physical and they are all readable before anything is ordered. The drive end shows a circular cup with a central hexagonal drive boss, a black sealing ring seated in its groove around the cup, and a slotted retainer plate inside it. The mounting shows two cast bolt eyes with threaded holes, one either side of that end. The housing carries a raised cast character block, with A05306 legible in the second line on the unit supplied. A pump of this type has no data plate carrying a part number, which is why the casting rather than a label is what a buyer is matching, and why we photograph that face on every unit.

The third thing worth understanding is that this number is one member of a superseded group, and that a later revision exists for the same application. That newer number is the one associated with the manufacturer service bulletin covering internal component failures in high pressure fuel pumps on this engine family, and it is the number to ask about if your vehicle falls inside the affected build range. We supply this number as a new compatible unit and we do not claim it carries the later revision changes. That is not a weakness in the part; it is a fact about which build your engine received, and the honest thing is to say which number you are being sold.

When this pump ages, the engine tells you through how it runs rather than through a warning light of its own. A long crank that is worse cold or after the engine has stood. A stumble when the car is worked. An idle that will not settle. Each of these is examined properly in the symptoms section below, together with the order of diagnostic work that stops a low pressure fault being billed as a pump.

Where our supply differs is what arrives rather than how the part works. Original equipment supply comes through the manufacturer’s own channels, and a buyer whose paperwork requires a factory boxed part does need to go there. What we supply is a high pressure pump replacement — a new compatible unit for the same job, sold under the Vidishi Auto brand, cast with the same character block, from a single piece with no core return. The part numbers and the family name appear on this page so you can match the pump you are replacing. They are references for fitment, not a claim about who made the part, and the cast characters visible in the photography are recorded as markings carried by the goods. The buying guides hold the general method for confirming any part from the unit itself, and the glossary explains the terminology if any of the names above are unfamiliar.

How we label data. Confirmed means a value read directly from the goods we handle, including the cast character block on the housing and the drive end, the sealing ring and the mounting ears visible in the photography. Reference means a part number, a family designation or a cross reference quoted so your paperwork can be matched, and carrying no claim about origin. Not published means the field is left blank on purpose — a pressure figure or a component number that we cannot source, or that the sources we found disagree on, would be worse than an empty cell, because it would end up in somebody’s parts order or somebody’s engine settings.

What is in the box. One complete high pressure fuel pump: the cast body with the drive cup and hex drive boss at one end, the black sealing ring seated in its groove, the slotted retainer plate inside the cup, the roller tappet engaging the vacuum pump lobe, the bright machined metering valve body with its black electrical connector on the flank, the threaded port and union, and the stepped cylindrical spigots. New sealing rings at the front of the pump and at the rail connection are required at fitting, and neither is asserted as included for this line. Nothing on this page is sold loose from the pump, and internal service components keep their own listings for buyers who want a rebuild rather than a replacement.

Read the table from the top, because the order matters. 13517616170 is the supplier part number and it is the strongest identifier on the page, but it is also a number with a history: it sits in a group that it supersedes, and a later revision exists alongside it for the same engine. The row that identifies the unit physically is not in the table at all, and that is deliberate. This assembly carries no data plate and no label with a part number on it. What it carries is a cast character block on the housing flank, with A05306 legible in the second line, and that is the marking a buyer should be matching. Used as a 13517616170 cross reference map, the table is a boundary as much as a bridge.

The Bosch row is there for identification the way a family name is on any catalogue entry, and it is worth reading with care twice over. It tells you which published pump family this assembly belongs to, which narrows the search and tells a parts clerk what sort of unit to look for on the shelf. It is not a statement that the unit in our box was made by that manufacturer, because it was not, and the difference matters both legally and practically when a warranty claim has to be settled. It is also not a complete answer about origin: the sources we could stand behind disagree about which supplier built which year of this pump family, so we name the published family for identification and make no claim about the origin of your particular unit. Our approach to reference brands across the site is set out on the help centre page.

The rows for the superseded numbers are the half of the mapping that catches people out, and the reason this page will not simply tell you they all fit. Published interchange data places them in the group that this number replaces, which means a buyer holding any of them may be asking for this assembly. It does not mean they are interchangeable on a given engine, because the change across that group was made for reasons. Use those rows to recognise a unit you already have, not to authorise a purchase you have not verified. If you are holding a number that is not on this list, send it to us with the cast block.

The 13517616170RKT row is there for a different reason. It is a published remanufactured reference, and we list it so that a buyer who has met that number knows what it refers to — which is a remanufactured pump, not the new unit we supply. If a quotation you are holding uses that suffix, you are looking at a exchange unit rather than a new one, and the two are not the same purchase.

What the table deliberately does not do is extend itself. It does not say that a neighbouring number fits your engine, that the later revision carries the same internal changes as this one, that a component number for anything inside the housing is settled, or that a pump from another engine family substitutes. Those are exactly the assumptions that turn a cheap order into an expensive week of vehicle downtime, and we would rather leave the cell empty than fill it with a guess. Our comparison charts set out the number families we can evidence, and the buying guides cover the general method for confirming any part from the unit itself.

The practical difference shows up on the pressure test. When delivery will not reach what the engine asks for under load, the vehicle either runs on compromised pressure until something else breaks, or the workshop fits a known-good pump and the reading comes straight back. Keeping a matched spare — correct drive end, correct cast block, tappet and sealing ring present — turns a two-week vehicle stop into a same-week swap. That is the case for holding one of these on the shelf before anything has failed, and it is why a single piece is a sensible purchase rather than an awkward one.

• A long crank that is worse cold or after a hot soak — A high pressure pump that cannot deliver what the engine asks for on start-up turns into extra cranking time before it fires, and the effect is most obvious when the fuel is cold or when the engine has been standing and the fuel has warmed up. The manufacturer position on this engine family names longer starting times as a symptom of an internal component failing inside the pump.
• A stumble or hesitation when the engine is worked — When the driver asks for load the pump has to raise delivery, and that is the demand an aged pump meets last. The car feels flat exactly when it is asked for more and fine at idle, which is what makes it easy to misread as something else.
• Erratic engine operation from idle upward — Once delivery is drifting from what the engine is asking for, the idle is the first place it shows, because idle asks for the least and notices the most. A hunt that will not settle, or a shake that no mounting fault explains, belongs on the list.
• A code stored on its own after a long crank — 2FBF is the code most often stored alone on this engine family after a difficult start, and 29DC is the one that names the high pressure system directly. Read the scan data behind a code rather than the code name, because the same codes appear when the low pressure side is the actual fault.
• An engine warning lamp with a power reduction message — Where the control unit cuts injection to protect itself, the driver sees reduced power and a warning rather than a stopped engine. That is a protection response to a pressure problem, not a separate fault, and it is worth reading the stored codes before replacing anything.
• Fuel consumption climbing faster than the hours on the meter — Fuel delivered at less than the commanded amount, or returned past a metering side that has drifted, is measured again and again, so the gauge moves faster than the work done.
• A rough engine that no filter work cures — Filters and injectors are the usual suspects, so a pump fault is often bought as a filter first. If new filters and good injectors leave the reading exactly where it was, and the low pressure side has been proven good, this pump is the next thing to look at.
• Pressure that will not hold on the low side either — This one belongs at the end of the list deliberately. If the low pressure system cannot hold its own threshold, everything downstream starves and the codes read as a high pressure failure. Check that side first, and the order of work saves the pump you would otherwise have replaced.

The pattern worth holding on to is the pair. A long crank on a cold start or after a hot soak, together with a stumble when the engine is worked, is the shape this fault takes on this engine family, and the manufacturer position on it names an internal component failing inside the high pressure pump as a cause of erratic engine operation and longer starting times. What makes it expensive is the ordering of the diagnosis: this engine has a low pressure system upstream, and if that system cannot hold its own threshold then everything downstream is starved and the codes read as a high pressure failure. Proving the low pressure side first is what stops a pump being replaced when the fault is a filter, a regulator or a tank unit. That is why we would rather see your pressure data than a decoded code list. The fault code guide explains how to read the data behind the code, and our maintenance guide covers the filter and fuel quality habits that keep a direct injection circuit healthy.

• Step 1. Depressurise, drain and expect the intake side to come off
  On this engine the pump sits under the intake side, so access means working around the manifold rather than lifting the pump straight out. Release the pressure and allow the fuel to settle before anything is undone, and plan the access work as part of the job rather than as an extra.
• Step 2. Prove the low pressure side before you remove anything
  Confirm the low pressure system reaches and then holds its own threshold. If it will not hold, the high pressure pump is being starved and replacing it will not fix the vehicle. This is the single most valuable step on the list, and it is the one most often skipped.
• Step 3. Turn the drive to its position and mark it
  The pump is driven by a lobe on the vacuum pump acting on a roller tappet, and the drive has to be engaged in the correct position for the new unit to sit correctly. Rotate the engine to bring the lobe to its lowest position, and mark the position of the hex drive boss against the housing before anything is unbolted.
• Step 4. Take the follower out with the pump and keep it with the job
  The roller tappet is a wear item and it is the part that actually rides the lobe. If the tappet is scored, fitting a new pump onto a scored tappet destroys the new pump in its first hours. Inspect the tappet and the lobe, and treat the tappet as a replacement item in its own right.
• Step 5. Clean the mounting face and renew the front sealing ring
  Wash the sealing face down before anything is opened, and fit a new ring on the front of the pump. A reused ring is the most common cause of both a fuel smell after the job and an early return of the same pressure fault.
• Step 6. Unbolt evenly and support the housing
  Work the fasteners in sequence rather than freeing one corner at a time. The housing has to lift straight off, and the drive boss and tappet must never be levered against the lobe.
• Step 7. Refit square and torque to the engine figure
  Bring the pump up into the marked position, draw the fasteners down evenly in stages, and torque to the figure for your engine. The figure belongs to the engine and to the vacuum pump, not to the part, and we do not publish it for this number.
• Step 8. Prime, bleed and verify pressure before the vehicle goes back
  Fill and bleed the system until it shows no air, confirm the connector is fully seated and the union shoulders are clean, then verify delivery pressure against target at idle and under load. Where a manufacturer bulletin applies to your build, the calibration question is separate and belongs to the vehicle.

Two notes on what we deliberately do not print. We do not publish the delivery pressure figure, the tightening figure for the mount, or the tapper lift and phasing figures, because all three belong to the engine application and to the vacuum pump lobe rather than to the part, and a figure copied from a product page into a workshop manual is how a good pump gets destroyed on a correct fit. Take them from the engine manual for the vehicle in front of you. And we do not publish a fuel injection torque figure as a shortcut, because the mount, the fuel line unions and the rail connection each have their own value and they are not interchangeable. The installation guide covers the surrounding routine, and the glossary defines the terms if any of the above are new to you.

Every 13517616170 pump is covered by a 12-month warranty against manufacturing defects. That covers a unit that arrives out of specification or fails early because of how it was made. It does not cover damage from contaminated fuel, from water in the system, from a filter changed too late, from incorrect fitting, from a drive boss or tappet torqued beyond its figure, from a scored vacuum pump lobe left in place, or from a separate fault elsewhere in the fuel circuit. It is a supplier warranty from Vidishi Auto and it is not a Bosch warranty and not a BMW warranty — we are not a dealer for either, and no cover from either travels with this part.

The condition we ask about every time is whether the low pressure side was proven before the pump came out, and whether the tappet and the vacuum pump lobe were inspected. Those two answers decide whether a replacement pump has a chance, and they are the two most commonly skipped on a job where somebody is under time pressure. Tell us what was done and we can tell you quickly whether a claim is likely to stand. If you would rather settle that question before you order, the contact page is the fastest route to a written answer.

The minimum order quantity is 1 piece, and the reasoning is worth stating rather than leaving you to work out. A high pressure pump failure takes one vehicle off the road, and the repair is done once, properly, by whoever gets to it first. One unit is therefore the sensible purchase for a workshop that does not already hold this engine family, and it is the right purchase for a distributor adding a line to an existing petrol fuel system order. From there the line scales normally — a workshop running several of these engines will take a set, and a fleet operator will take one per vehicle.

What we do not do on this line is pretend the part is something it is not, and on this number that matters more than usual because the listing this product came from was titled as an original part. The unit we ship is a new compatible replacement sold under the Vidishi Auto brand. It is not a Bosch-branded product, it is not a genuine BMW part and it is not a factory boxed original. That matters commercially as well as legally: if your incoming goods inspection needs a specific brand on the paperwork, this is not that product, and we would rather tell you now than have a delivery rejected. The help centre covers ordering, documentation and brand questions, and the returns page sets out what happens if a unit is not what you expected.

The package size and gross weight in that table are a packing estimate, and we label it that way rather than quietly presenting it as a specification. No source we can stand behind publishes a packaged figure for this number, so we give you a figure we can pack and weigh against rather than a manufacturer specification we cannot evidence. If your freight is calculated on volumetric weight rather than actual weight, tell us the destination and we will confirm the chargeable weight against the carton we actually use. The shipping page sets out the full documentation and delivery terms, and the order tracking page is where to follow a shipment once it has left.

On the protective side, the three areas we watch are the drive cup, the hex drive boss and the electrical connector on the metering valve. A boss knocked out of shape will not seat against the tappet and will damage the new pump within hours, a marked cup face will not seal against the new ring, and a bent connector pin is a fault that looks like an electrical problem for weeks afterwards. All three are packed protected on every unit, and all three are worth checking on arrival before the box goes into stores.

A high pressure pump is a small number of large, precisely machined parts, and on this engine the identifying features are physical rather than printed, so this line is checked at unit level rather than by sample. Every batch passes an incoming check on the cast character block on the housing flank, an inspection of the drive cup, the hex drive boss and the slotted retainer plate, a confirm that the black sealing ring is seated cleanly in its groove, a check that the two cast bolt eyes are undamaged and their threaded holes are clear, a confirm that the roller tappet and the metering valve body with its connector are present and undamaged, a check that the threaded port, the union and the spigots are free of obstruction, and a packed-weight confirmation against the documented figure. The supplier shows a system certification badge on the product photography, which we record as a supplier statement rather than as a certificate we issue.

Rather than publish reviews we cannot verify, we tell you what we will actually put in writing: a written fitment confirmation against the drive end photograph, cast block and engine code you send us, a written quote against your quantity and destination, and a warranty position on any claim that follows. If you need a supplier who will sign a specific inspection or conformance document with the order, ask before you buy rather than after, because the answer depends on what the document is. The help centre covers the documentation we can provide, and the partner programme page is the route for a standing arrangement that needs more than a one-off order.

Support is not an add-on on this line — it is how most of these orders get placed correctly. It costs nothing before you buy: send a photograph of the drive end, a photograph of the cast character block on the housing, the engine code and the vehicle details, and we check the whole set against what we supply before quoting. That last item is the one people skip, and on this engine it is the one that matters most, because a high pressure pump and an in-tank low pressure pump look similar in a search result and cost very different amounts to get wrong. Two minutes with the old unit in front of you is cheaper than a pump that arrives and does not settle the fault.

Two things we will not do, whatever the order size. We will not quote a fitment we cannot evidence, and we will not ship a pump matched on a digit when the drive end and the cast block are available. If that costs us an order, it is still the right call: a high pressure pump that arrives mismatched costs a workshop a second removal, and that is the failure we exist to prevent. If anything on this page is unclear, the contact page lists every route to us, and a written answer is always better than a guess on a workshop schedule.